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TANGERANG – The rows of batik neatly displayed at the BRI UMKM Expo at ICE BSD, Tangerang Regency, Banten, on January 31 were not just ordinary fabrics. Each piece carries a story of efforts to protect the environment in a city. These batik fabrics were made using natural dyes by artisans from Pekalongan.
Natural-dyed batik is a program initiated by KEMITRAAN with the support of the Adaptation Fund. The program was born out of concern over the pollution of rivers and groundwater in Pekalongan caused by synthetic batik dyes. There is even a saying that if the river water in Pekalongan turns colorful, it means batik production is at its peak.
Ambar, the owner of the Puri Ambari batik brand and a key figure in the natural-dyed batik movement under KEMITRAAN, shared that natural-dyed batik from Pekalongan has come a long way before reaching markets in Jakarta and even being exported. Although Pekalongan is known as the City of Batik, the use of natural dyes in batik production was previously unheard of there. Almost all artisans relied on synthetic dyes, which polluted the rivers and groundwater.
However, Ambar’s efforts to encourage batik entrepreneurs in Pekalongan have gradually borne fruit. Some business owners have begun to show interest in this eco-friendly practice. One of them is Afida, a young entrepreneur who is now exploring natural-dyed batik production. Previously, she only sold batik made with synthetic dyes.
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Afida shared that her interest in natural-dyed batik stemmed from her concern about river pollution in Pekalongan caused by synthetic batik dyes. She found it deeply ironic that river pollution in Pekalongan was considered an indicator of high batik production. In her view, economic growth should go hand in hand with an improved quality of life, one aspect of which is environmental sustainability.
“I was immediately drawn to the environmental value of this initiative. Natural-dyed batik has great potential because it doesn’t produce waste,” said Afida.
Today, several batik entrepreneurs in Pekalongan have started experimenting with natural-dyed batik production. They are part of a mentoring group established by KEMITRAAN called Lamtiur. The name Lamtiur has since been adopted as the brand name for the natural-dyed batik they produce.
Afida mentioned that she still sells synthetic-dyed batik because the market is not yet fully ready to absorb natural-dyed batik production. Additionally, natural-dyed batik takes longer to produce due to its complex dyeing process. However, she believes the business prospects for natural-dyed batik are very promising. According to Afida, one of its main advantages is its exclusivity.
“First, because the production process is unique, people are naturally interested. And when it’s paired with its environmental value, it attracts even more buyers. Plus, natural-dyed batik is more comfortable to wear since the dyes come from nature, making it a better option for people with sensitive skin,” Afida explained.
Andaru, a batik entrepreneur from Pekalongan who also showcased his natural-dyed batik at the ICE BSD exhibition, expressed a similar sentiment. Having learned about natural-dyed batik through KEMITRAAN, he also recognized its bright business prospects.
“Especially in the export market—there is strong enthusiasm for natural-dyed batik. If we focus on this, the future looks very promising,” said Andaru.
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The natural-dyed batik pioneered by KEMITRAAN in Pekalongan has already been featured in several fashion shows. The Lamtiur group, in collaboration with Puri Ambari, successfully participated in Solo Fashion Week. They are confident that public interest will continue to grow as natural-dyed batik gains recognition in the national batik industry.
“Public response has been improving day by day. Of course, continuous education is necessary. In the future, this will have significant economic value and offer great hope for our environmental sustainability,” said Ambar.